When you think of iconic American cocktails like the Martini or the Manhattan, Vermouth is likely not the first ingredient that comes to mind. Yet, this aromatic fortified wine has played a pivotal role in shaping the nation’s drinking culture. From its arrival in the mid-19th century to its struggles during Prohibition and its modern resurgence, Vermouth’s journey in America is a fascinating story of adaptation, innovation, and rediscovery. Let’s pour a glass and explore how Vermouth became a cornerstone of American mixology.
The Early Days: Vermouth Arrives in the New World
Vermouth, an Italian aromatized wine flavored with botanicals, first made its way to American shores in the 1850s, primarily as Vermouth di Torino from Turin, the epicenter of its production. American bartenders quickly recognized its potential, embracing it as a sophisticated mixer that added depth to cocktails. With its reputation as the drink of Europe’s high society, Vermouth brought an aura of elegance to the burgeoning cocktail culture in cities like New York. By the late 1800s, it had become a staple in the vibrant bar scene, often used in generous proportions—sometimes twice as much Vermouth as gin or whiskey in recipes of the 1880s and 1890s.
The first documented cocktail featuring Vermouth, the “Vermuth Cocktail,” appeared in J. Haney’s 1869 Steward and Barkeeper’s Manual. Though it was little more than chilled Vermouth with a lemon twist, it marked the beginning of Vermouth’s integration into American drinking habits. Soon after, classics like the Manhattan (circa 1880) and early precursors to the Martini emerged, showcasing Vermouth’s versatility as a key ingredient alongside spirits. Between 1867 and 1889, companies like Cinzano exported massive quantities—612,000 liters—to America, cementing Vermouth’s role in the rise of cocktail culture.
Prohibition’s Shadow: A Blow to Vermouth’s Popularity
Vermouth’s early success in America was abruptly halted by Prohibition, which began in 1920 and lasted until 1933. The nationwide ban on alcohol devastated the cocktail scene, and Vermouth, largely an imported product, faced severe restrictions as European shipments were prohibited. This period not only disrupted the supply of high-quality Vermouth but also diminished its cultural standing as bars shuttered and mixology took a backseat.
During Prohibition, domestic production struggled to fill the gap. The lack of established infrastructure and expertise meant that American-made Vermouth often paled in comparison to its European counterparts. Even after Prohibition ended, Vermouth faced challenges. High taxes on imported Vermouth—initially quadruple those on domestic products until equalized in 1936—hindered its recovery, though lobbying by American producers eventually leveled the playing field. Additionally, anti-Italian and anti-French sentiment during and after World War II pushed consumers toward domestically produced Vermouth, which saw a surge in both quality and quantity, particularly in California and New York.
Post-Prohibition Struggles and Shifting Tastes
The end of Prohibition in 1933 brought hope for Vermouth’s revival, with the fashion for Dry Martinis helping it become the largest-selling “wine” in the country at the time. Domestic producers like the Gallo brothers, who founded their winery in California in 1933, capitalized on this trend, though they faced hurdles due to years of non-production and initial tax disadvantages. By 1938, the Vermouth Industries of America was established, and its Tribuno brand went on to dominate the market. Wartime conditions further boosted domestic production, as imports from Europe were disrupted, with Martini & Rossi even shipping from Spain and Argentina to meet demand.
Despite these efforts, Vermouth’s popularity waned in the mid-20th century. Post-Prohibition cocktail preferences shifted toward tiki bars and sweeter liqueurs in the 1970s, sidelining Vermouth’s complex, herbal profile. By the 1980s and early 2000s, its use in recipes like the Martini and Manhattan was reduced to mere dashes rather than ounces, reflecting a broader cultural move away from balanced, Vermouth-heavy drinks. Another challenge was the lack of knowledge about proper storage—many bartenders and enthusiasts failed to refrigerate opened bottles, leading to oxidation and a decline in quality that further tarnished Vermouth’s reputation.
Domestic Production: Building an American Vermouth Identity
While European Vermouth struggled to regain its foothold, domestic production became a significant force. By 1943, the United States had 238 Vermouth wineries, with 186 concentrated in New York, New Jersey, and California. These three states accounted for nearly 94% of national Vermouth production and 80% of tax-paid withdrawals, showcasing the regional strength of the industry. California alone hosted 70 Vermouth-producing wineries, while New York and New Jersey together had 116, reflecting a robust response to wartime conditions and reduced European competition.
This period marked a turning point for American Vermouth, as producers began to develop their own styles and flavors, distinct from traditional Italian and French varieties. The focus on domestic production laid the groundwork for a unique American Vermouth identity, which would later evolve into the craft and artisanal movements of the 21st century.
A Modern Renaissance: Vermouth Reclaims the Spotlight
The 21st century has witnessed a remarkable resurgence of Vermouth in the American cocktail scene, driven by a renewed interest in classic drinks like the Negroni and Manhattan. As master mixologist Francesco Lafranconi notes, it took nearly 130 years since Vermouth’s first importation for it to become a star ingredient again, largely thanks to the popularity of the Negroni. Over the past 15 years, improvements in the quality of American rye whiskies and gins have created a demand for superior Vermouth to craft more sophisticated cocktails.
Education has played a crucial role in this revival. Pioneer brands such as Carpano, Martini & Rossi, Cinzano, Cocchi, Noilly Prat, and Dolin have invested in public events, brand ambassadors, and social media to inform both the trade and consumers about Vermouth’s potential. Bartenders and mixologists, now more knowledgeable and curious, are exploring Vermouth’s rich flavors to enhance their recipes, moving beyond the minimal dashes of the past.
The rise of craft and small-batch production has further fueled Vermouth’s comeback. American brands like Vya, Imbue, and Atsby are gaining recognition for their innovative takes on traditional recipes, reflecting a growing demand for premium and artisanal varieties . In 2025, the U.S. Vermouth market is expected to surpass $200 million in revenue, driven by a diverse consumer base and evolving culinary trends . This resurgence highlights Vermouth’s adaptability and its ability to resonate with modern tastes while honoring its historical roots.
Vermouth’s Cultural Impact in America
Beyond its role in cocktails, Vermouth has woven itself into American cultural narratives. In the 1950s, its popularity soared with the Martini, boosted by marketing from liquor companies and endorsements from cultural icons like Ernest Hemingway and Humphrey Bogart. The fictional character James Bond further elevated the Martini’s—and by extension Vermouth’s—profile, embedding it in popular imagination as a symbol of sophistication.
Today, Vermouth is not just a mixer but a trending darling in the U.S. cocktail scene, as Lafranconi describes. Its journey from a dominant ingredient in the Golden Age of Cocktails to a post-Prohibition decline and now a fashionable staple underscores its resilience. Whether sipped neat as an aperitif or mixed into a complex drink, Vermouth continues to shape American drinking habits, promising a bright future in the evolving narrative of cocktail culture.
Exploring American Vermouth: Tips for Enthusiasts
For those eager to dive into Vermouth’s American story, here are a few ways to experience it:
- Try Classic Cocktails: Start with a Manhattan or a Negroni to appreciate how Vermouth balances strong spirits with its herbal notes. Use a domestic brand like Vya for a modern twist .
- Sample Domestic Varieties: Explore American Vermouths from producers like Imbue or Atsby, which offer unique flavors reflecting local ingredients and innovation .
- Store It Right: Keep opened bottles in the refrigerator to prevent oxidation, ensuring the Vermouth stays fresh for up to a month or two.
- Join the Revival: Attend events or follow social media campaigns by brands educating consumers about Vermouth’s versatility and history.
A Toast to Vermouth’s American Journey
Vermouth’s path in America is a testament to the ebb and flow of cultural tastes and historical events. From its glamorous debut in the 19th century to the setbacks of Prohibition and mid-20th-century neglect, and now its vibrant revival, Vermouth has proven its staying power in the world of alcoholic beverages. As the U.S. market continues to grow—projected to reach over $5.56 billion in North America by 2029 with an 8.2% CAGR—Vermouth’s story is far from over. So, whether you’re a seasoned mixologist or a curious sipper, raise a glass to Vermouth, the aromatic elixir that has shaped America’s cocktail legacy one sip at a time.
Addendum: Are American Vermouths Really Vermouth?
As American Vermouth experiences a renaissance, with craft producers like Vya and Atsby gaining acclaim, a fundamental question arises: Are these American creations truly Vermouth in the traditional sense? The answer lies at the intersection of legal definitions, cultural expectations, and production practices, revealing a nuanced debate between Old World purists and New World innovators.
Legally, the definition of Vermouth in the United States is far looser than in Europe. In the EU, Vermouth must contain at least 75% wine in the finished product, have an ABV between 14.5% and 22%, and include at least one herb from the Artemisia family, typically wormwood, which gives Vermouth its name from the German “Wermut”. In contrast, U.S. regulations classify Vermouth simply as an aperitif wine with a minimum ABV of 15%, fortified with a stronger spirit, and possessing “the taste, aroma, and characteristics generally attributed to Vermouth”. Notably, there’s no requirement for wormwood or any specific botanical, allowing American producers significant creative freedom. This lax framework has sparked contention among traditionalists who argue that without wormwood, a product shouldn’t bear the Vermouth label.
Production differences further fuel the debate. European Vermouths, particularly from Italy and France, often start with base wines harvested less ripe, offering higher acidity and lower sugar to balance the botanicals’ intensity. American Vermouths, frequently made with California wines, use riper, fruitier grapes that result in a bolder, sometimes brasher flavor profile, as noted by wine expert Jordan Mackay. Additionally, many U.S. producers, like Andrew Ford of Amberthorn, deliberately avoid wormwood due to restrictions on Grande Wormwood in the U.S. and a desire to create a distinctly American product rather than mimic European styles. Ford argues that including a token amount of wormwood just for labeling purposes would be disingenuous, emphasizing his goal of crafting something “fanciful” and unique to the American palate.
Culturally, the perception of Vermouth also differs. In Europe, Vermouth is steeped in tradition, tied to rituals like the aperitivo hour in Italy, where it’s sipped neat or with soda as a prelude to a meal . In the U.S., Vermouth is predominantly seen as a cocktail ingredient, driven by the craft cocktail movement’s focus on drinks like the Negroni. This utilitarian view, combined with a push for innovation using indigenous botanicals, means American Vermouths often prioritize aggressive, standout flavors over the subtle complexity of their European counterparts. As Sother Teague of Amor y Amargo notes, these unique offerings open “countless possibilities for mixing cocktails,” reflecting a distinctly American approach to experimentation.
So, are American Vermouths really Vermouth? From a strict traditionalist perspective, the absence of wormwood and divergence from European production norms might disqualify them. Yet, under U.S. law and in the eyes of modern mixologists, they undeniably fit the category, embodying the spirit of Vermouth through their aromatized, fortified nature. Perhaps the truest answer lies in the evolving nature of Vermouth itself—a beverage that has always adapted to its cultural context. American Vermouths, with their bold flavors and innovative spirit, are carving out a new chapter in this storied drink’s history, proving that “Vermouth is Vermouth,” as Roberto Bava of Cocchi succinctly put it, regardless of where it’s made or how it’s defined .